In light cover or where snags are sparse, simply drift or troll the rig along, skipping across bottom. Any longer, and the snell will likely tend to droop below horizontal and snag bottom or cover. Your best bet when dropping a bouncer assembly to bottom is to lower the rig into the water and then let it descend under light tension, extending the rig behind the bouncer rather than letting the sinker plunge and risk wrapping the trailing snell around your main line.Īny snell of about 3 1„2 to 4 feet or less is fair game to be trailed behind bouncers. Twist bends are inherently less self-correcting and more tangle prone. R-bends tend to minimize tangles, since the knot can rotate around the bent wire as the bouncer drops to the bottom on the initial descent. Most bouncers come with either a twist or an open R-bend at the junction of the wire leg and arm, to which you tie your main line extending up to your rod. Change triggers strikes, and bouncers continually impart change, just by their basic design and function. If a spinner's attached to the snell, the spinner pulses, then slackens rotation. This rocking motion imparts movement to your snell, and thus your livebait, making it surge, then pause. As long as you maintain tension and motion, the sinker stands up, although it rocks as it crawls up and over an object or touches bottom, with the foot momentarily lodging in place as the assembly tilts forward, then backward once bottom contact is broken. In essence, it's an easy on-off snell-changing skip-along fixed sinker.īecause the wire leg protrudes below the weight, it fends off rocks and usually avoids wedging into crevices between boulders, as it crawls over and between them. At the top of the leg, the wire is bent at about 90 degrees to form a shorter arm, generally with a snap swivel at the end, to which you attach the looped end of a snell - livebait rig, spinner rig, whatever. Higher is more snag-resistant, lower (or at the base of the wire) perhaps offers better bottom feel. The standard bottom bouncer has perhaps a 10-inch wire leg with a weight molded to the stem at about the midpoint, sometimes higher, sometimes lower. From humble beginnings, a legendary presentation was born. As walleye catches spread and the numbers of subterranean manufacturers grew, bottom bouncing crawled out of the abyss and evolved into a significant tactic among the walleye crowd. Actually, it was lead molded onto a wire frame, likely in a Frankenstein-like experiment spawned in some enterprising angler's basement. It began along the Missouri River, where reservoir anglers started trolling a newfangled contraption resembling a section of bent coat hanger poked through a lead weight. But like a phoenix, heavy lead combos began rising from the ashes. And those types of depths.There was a time when slipsinker livebait rigs ruled the waves and excess hardware had plummeted out of fashion, relegated to the rusty bottoms of old tackle boxes on the back shelf in the garage. If it's over 20 feet go with the big bad boy three ounces of stainless steel pounding around down they're gonna give. Than 10 feet stick with a 3/4 ounce bouncer 10 to 20 feet you're gonna want. What depth you're fishing if you're less. One of the most effective tools we're finding and catching walleyes at. Ijust live for North land fishing tackle. It just catching fish.įish attack fisherman's baby. You drop that line down you're always run the risk of getting the line twists with the slick stick there're no worries no bus. You know anybody that's fish bottom bouncers knows. It allows you to switch out your sinker without having to worry about line twists. And years until North land came up with the slick sticks what's neat about the slick sticks is not only do have a longer sleeker design but also with the swivel. Icast 2012 show any of the new North land slicks tips from three-quarter ounce for ounce bottom bouncers seducing and bottom bouncing technology there hasn't been a change in bottom bouncers.
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